FAQ

A common starting point is a ratio around 2.7 to 3.0 (e.g., a 46/17 or 48/17 setup). This offers a good balance: it’s low enough to get started quickly and climb moderate hills without grinding your knees, but high enough to maintain a decent speed on flats without "spinning out" too fast. For very flat cities, you can aim higher (around 3.0+); for very hilly areas, start lower (around 2.5–2.7).

For street riding and commuting, we strongly recommend running at least one front brake. A fixed gear allows you to slow down via leg resistance, but a front brake provides the most effective emergency stopping power, especially in traffic. Brakeless riding is generally reserved for controlled environments like a velodrome (track) or by highly experienced riders who fully accept the increased risk.

A track bike is a specific type of fixed-gear bike designed for racing on a velodrome. It has a high bottom bracket, steep angles, very short clearances, and is typically ridden brakeless. A street fixed gear bike (often called a fixie) is designed to be more durable and practical for the road, usually with slacker geometry, wider tire clearance, and mounting points for brakes/water bottles.

To effectively slow down and stop using your legs (back-pressure or skidding), you need a system that secures your feet. Toe clips/straps and clipless pedals (like SPD) are the most popular choices. Clipless pedals offer the most secure connection and best power transfer, while straps are easier to quickly bail out of in an emergency. Platform pedals are generally insufficient for fixed-gear control.

Pedal strike is when your pedal hits the ground mid-turn. It's a risk on fixed gear bikes because they often have high bottom brackets (especially true track frames). The key is to level your pedals (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) when cornering, as you cannot coast. Aggressive leaning or hitting a tight turn with your inner pedal down increases the risk.

The primary fixed-gear slowing methods are Back Pressure (lightly resisting the pedals), Skidding (locking up your legs to stop the rear wheel), and the Skip Hop (unweighting the rear wheel and skipping it to slow down). Always learn these techniques in a safe, open area away from traffic, and start with low speeds and your hand brake ready.

A track stand is the ability to balance on your bike without unclipping or putting a foot down. Start by finding a slight incline, point your front wheel into the hill at an angle (10 to 2 o'clock), and use a slight forward/backward pedal pressure to maintain balance. The main benefit is being able to wait at traffic lights without unclipping, saving time and energy.

Climbing: Focus on a smooth, constant pedal stroke and stay seated as long as possible to conserve energy. Descending: This is where you rely heavily on leg control. Use strong back pressure and a light touch on your front brake (if you have one) to modulate speed. Avoid letting the pedals spin freely, as this can lead to loss of control.

Fixed gear riding forces you to develop a smoother, more consistent circular pedal stroke (eliminating the "dead spot" at the top and bottom of the stroke) and significantly increases leg and core strength due to the constant engagement. This improved technique transfers directly to greater efficiency and power on geared bikes.

This feeling, known as "spinning out," is caused by too low a gear ratio for your speed. The solution is to either practice spinning at a higher cadence (the number of revolutions per minute, or RPM) or increase your gear ratio (a larger chainring or a smaller cog) to match your fitness and riding environment.

The standard spacing is 120mm. This is narrower than modern road (130mm) or mountain bikes (135mm/142mm). It matters because a 120mm track hub fits perfectly into a 120mm frame, ensuring the best chainline and requiring no "squishing" of the frame, which can stress the material over time.

This is a personal choice based on style and use: Riser Bars offer the most upright position, best visibility, and easiest handling for quick maneuvering in traffic. Bullhorns (or pursuit bars) offer multiple hand positions and an aggressive forward position for sprinting and climbing. Drop Bars offer the most aerodynamic tuck, best suited for longer rides and racing.

Rake/Offset is the horizontal distance between the center of the wheel axle and the steering axis (the line going through the head tube). A shorter rake (common on track forks) results in a smaller 'trail' which gives quick, twitchy, and responsive steering. A longer rake (common on street bikes) results in a larger 'trail' which provides slower, more stable, and predictable steering.

Track geometry features a higher BB (to avoid pedal strike on banked corners) and steeper angles for quick, responsive steering. Street fixed gear frames have a lower BB for a more stable ride and safer cornering, along with slacker angles for more predictable handling in traffic.

A Porteur build adapts the fixed-gear bike for practical commuting and carrying loads. It typically involves customizing the frame with: a large, low-mounted front rack (often integrated with the handlebars), fender/mudguard mounts, an easy-to-use riser/flat bar setup, and sometimes larger tire clearances for comfort.