FAQ

Products are typically delivered in approximately 5–10 business days after the order is placed, though transit time is dependent on your shipment method and location.

You will be notified via electronic mail with a tracking number when your shipment leaves the facility.

No, deliveries will not be made to P.O. boxes or Shipping Agents.

No, cancellation is generally not available after the payment is completed.

Any change to an order containing framesets must be requested within 2 business days following our receipt of your order. You must speak directly with a Customer Service representative at skreambikes@gmail.com.

If you refuse or fail to pay your country's custom charges/import tax, the shipping fee would not be refunded.

A common starting point is a ratio around 2.7 to 3.0 (e.g., a 46/17 or 48/17 setup). This offers a good balance: it’s low enough to get started quickly and climb moderate hills without grinding your knees, but high enough to maintain a decent speed on flats without "spinning out" too fast. For very flat cities, you can aim higher (around 3.0+); for very hilly areas, start lower (around 2.5–2.7).

For street riding and commuting, we strongly recommend running at least one front brake. A fixed gear allows you to slow down via leg resistance, but a front brake provides the most effective emergency stopping power, especially in traffic. Brakeless riding is generally reserved for controlled environments like a velodrome (track) or by highly experienced riders who fully accept the increased risk.

To effectively slow down and stop using your legs (back-pressure or skidding), you need a system that secures your feet. Toe clips/straps and clipless pedals (like SPD) are the most popular choices. Clipless pedals offer the most secure connection and best power transfer, while straps are easier to quickly bail out of in an emergency. Platform pedals are generally insufficient for fixed-gear control.

The primary fixed-gear slowing methods are Back Pressure (lightly resisting the pedals), Skidding (locking up your legs to stop the rear wheel), and the Skip Hop (unweighting the rear wheel and skipping it to slow down). Always learn these techniques in a safe, open area away from traffic, and start with low speeds and your hand brake ready.

A track stand is the ability to balance on your bike without unclipping or putting a foot down. Start by finding a slight incline, point your front wheel into the hill at an angle (10 to 2 o'clock), and use a slight forward/backward pedal pressure to maintain balance. The main benefit is being able to wait at traffic lights without unclipping, saving time and energy.

Fixed gear riding forces you to develop a smoother, more consistent circular pedal stroke (eliminating the "dead spot" at the top and bottom of the stroke) and significantly increases leg and core strength due to the constant engagement. This improved technique transfers directly to greater efficiency and power on geared bikes.

The standard spacing is 120mm. This is narrower than modern road (130mm) or mountain bikes (135mm/142mm). It matters because a 120mm track hub fits perfectly into a 120mm frame, ensuring the best chainline and requiring no "squishing" of the frame, which can stress the material over time.

This is a personal choice based on style and use: Riser Bars offer the most upright position, best visibility, and easiest handling for quick maneuvering in traffic. Bullhorns (or pursuit bars) offer multiple hand positions and an aggressive forward position for sprinting and climbing. Drop Bars offer the most aerodynamic tuck, best suited for longer rides and racing.

Rake/Offset is the horizontal distance between the center of the wheel axle and the steering axis (the line going through the head tube). A shorter rake (common on track forks) results in a smaller 'trail' which gives quick, twitchy, and responsive steering. A longer rake (common on street bikes) results in a larger 'trail' which provides slower, more stable, and predictable steering.